On the one hand, Castro Point serves weekend brunch on a spacious shaded patio rather than the usual cramped sidewalk of many downtown Mountain View restaurants. And how many of them even have brunch?

On the other hand, the patio hugs a busy intersection and many people can't get the ghost of Der Wienerschnitzel out of their minds.

A few feet from the patio's ornate (cherubs clutching grape clusters) central fountain is the former outdoor window ledge of Der Wienerschnitzel, the longest tenant of this building.

The first time I visited Castro Point, a parade of the curious marched up to the menu posted outside, and despite a staff person rushing up to reel them in, few took the bait. A month later, people still stopped by and walked on, but many more strode purposefully in, and were heard to mention menu items they'd had previously. Castro Point seems to be catching on.

As well it should. Chef John Tran and his pastry chef, whose full name is Chonpi, came to Mountain View from A.P. Stump's in downtown San Jose. They're after a similar rainbow blend of California fresh food and wine, with Asian and European touches. Tran describes his menu as "pretty daring," but none dare call it fusion.

Some dishes work beautifully and others are misbegotten, as on an episode of "Top Chef," but you can feel the dedication at Castro Point, from plate presentation to the enthusiasm of the servers.

House-baked rosemary focaccia is warm, tall and yeasty. I prefer flat, chewy focaccia to a slice of cake, but my companion liked it. On both visits, the breadbasket and water came right away, and the recitation of three specials was mercifully brief.

A special appetizer, the tuna tower ($14) was leaning on delivery and would have toppled on its own, but there was no other way to get at it. Glistening cubes of sashimi-grade tuna topped layers of mango salsa, crab and avocado. It was fun to try different combinations of the fish, sweet-tart fruit, seafood and nutty avocado. Fried wontons were provided for scooping.

More than a dozen Prince Edward Island mussels ($10) circled four small meatballs of spicy sausage and cherry tomatoes in a pool of white wine, shallot and garlic broth. The sausage logistics were just a little off. Bigger or smaller would have made mixing easier.

For the regular dinner menu, Tran spins a superior Caesar salad ($7) with whole Romaine leaves and a large and luscious sardine. Another excellent starter pairs crisped slips of pork belly with seared ahi and hard-boiled quail eggs ($11).

If you want a glass of wine with your pork belly, Castro Point obliges with knowledgeable servers and a thoughtful wine list. Sommelier Cindy Tran (no relation) matches all dishes on the menu with wine. Beer also could work, with 20 choices including Belgian, French and German brews. Castro Point's cheese and cured meat plates go well with beer.

In addition to salads and appetizers, the menu offers a handful of light entrees including the popular sauteed cubes of marinated filet mignon served over watercress in citrus vinaigrette ($14). The night I tried it, plum sauce marinade got the best of the meat.

A tender, juicy chicken breast accompanies Tran's signature macaroni and cheese ($20), a rich blend of cheeses, shiitake mushrooms and truffle oil.

Truffle oil also got a workout in the balsamic reduction saucing a very lean "American Kobe" sirloin ($29). Attention to detail is apparent in the sidekicks: perfectly cooked fingerling potatoes and asparagus.

Same with the glazed sea bass ($29), accompanied by bok choy and garlic noodles, my favorite entree.

Castro Point is vegetarian-friendly. There's always a vegetarian entree, and many dishes can be converted. The sea bass dish, for example, can be made with eggplant.

As with the specials, desserts are recited rather than written. You have to ask if you want the price. But $6.95 for lovely chocolate cake, half mousse, is totally within reason. At the same price, the apple tart is enough for two people, but the thin-sliced apples, nicely chewy at the edge, were drowned in toppings of caramel sauce, custard sauce and vanilla bean ice cream. The house-made ice cream was good, though. Chonpi the pastry chef makes all the ice creams and sorbets.

Castro Point seats 45 people inside, where there are white tablecloths, a chandelier and risk of an annoying hum to the air-conditioning. Restroom detailing includes a plump, upholstered ottoman in case you need a breather. The patio has less of a Versailles vibe.