It required a degree of persuasion for this review to ever see the light of day. After all, these pages usually cover fine (or at least unique) cuisine, rather than fast food from a chain of South Bay-based, Mexican-inspired restaurants.

But Una Mas is an emerging success story that originated right in our backyard 17 years ago. And while it is in many regards a fast food chain — with an inexpensive, limited menu and speedy service — Una Mas is unlike most of them.

Mountain View's establishment, on Grant Road, is no exception. For example, when you order "for here" and pick up your food at the front counter, everything is served on plates and in bowls rather than Styrofoam or cardboard containers. Presentation is thoughtful, and colorfully tiled floors and walls create an atmosphere more inviting than most burger joints.

Stranger still, Una Mas' food is prepared with healthiness in mind. Few items are deep fried, and the menu deemphasizes refried beans and rice in favor of fresh-tasting vegetables and meats.

You won't find an expansive choice of starters beyond the requisite guacamole and chips or nachos, but I did try a bowl of tortilla soup ($2.79 small/$3.89 larger). Neither too spicy nor too bland, the soup brimmed with bite sized pieces of chicken, tortilla strips, and avocado slices floating in a tomato-chicken broth. Shredded cheese sprinkled over the top melted into strings, thickening the soup and adding a nice texture. Our small bowl was a generous portion, so I would imagine that a large order would be ample for a light lunch.

Another interesting take on a traditional appetizer, the butternut squash quesadilla ($6.25) sounded like the healthiest selection on the menu. Yet it turned out to be the greasiest dish we tried. But that's how it goes when you melt cheese with diced and sauteed green, orange and yellow squash in a flour tortilla. Ramping up the calorie count were big dollops of guacamole and sour cream. Dieters beware.

Our taqueria tacos ($3.95 for two/$5.50 for three) were served with soft corn tortillas stuffed with lots of shredded chicken, white onions, chopped cilantro and dribbled salsa. I found them to be especially tasty because of the ingredients that weren't included: heavy refried beans, fattening cheese and grease. The simplicity of the recipe enabled the flavor of grilled chicken and freshness of the cilantro to inform every bite, and it quickly became a favorite.

The only deep-fried dish that we ordered, chicken flautas ($6.45), were four corn tortillas rolled around shredded grilled chicken and slathered with guacamole, salsa, cheese, sour cream and cilantro. Unfortunately, the flautas were barely warm by the time they reached my table and the tortillas weren't altogether crispy, which is too bad since the dish had a wonderfully smoky flavor.

Una Mas offers a wide selection of burritos, including inventive originals like the Foghead burrito, featuring chicken with barbecue sauce, and the pineapple Thai burrito, made with pineapple salsa. We dug into the enormous grilled fajita burrito ($6.49 chicken/$6.69 steak), which was wrapped in a chili-tomato tortilla and served in aluminum foil. Ours included chicken, cheese, peppers, guacamole, whole pinto beans and grilled onions — an unusual touch that added lots of sweetness. Very satisfying and filling.

While ordering this meal, we couldn't miss a prominent sign posted at the cash register explaining that, due to the recent salmonella/tomato scare, the restaurant had temporarily discontinued serving salsa fresca — a prime ingredient of the grilled fajita burrito. So we took a trip to the salsa bar, where we found an impressive array that included salsa ranchera (a medium-hot variety), salsa verde (a milder selection), salsa picante (a very nice, spicy concoction), escabeche (mixed peppers, onions and other veggies pickled in a vinegar marinade) and chopped cilantro. Opting for the hottest option, a judicious dribble of salsa picante livened up every bite of our burrito.

Any diner can appreciate Una Mas' fusion of Mexican cuisine with the Californian taste for freshness. But I believe the restaurant is a particularly great asset for parents on a budget. If you're concerned about your children's diets, but just don't feel like cooking tonight, Una Mas offers healthy food at discount prices, packaged in a way that might fool your kids into believing they're eating junk food.